Seemingly in the middle of a roundabout and surrounded by the towering glass and steel of the financial district, the Museum of London is a tour de force that does justice to the history of one of the world's great cities. Laid out in chronological order, the galleries begin with prehistoric flints, bones and skulls, before immersing you in Roman Londinium using several impressive and intricate models of Roman settlements, plus a mock-up of a kitchen and larder, complete with an unskinned rabbit, fruit and vegetables. Next-up, are the medieval galleries, which includes a model of a late Anglo-Saxon hut with rock hard beds, animal skins and cooking utensils. Then you have the War, Plague and Fire galleries covering the 1500s and 1600s, dwelling on the horrors of the Black Death and the Fire of London, as well as the cut and thrust of the Civil War. The five horrendous days of the fire are told by a video fronted by a dark model of London which lights up gradually as the flames consume the city. You'll also find ornate pistols, muskets, halberds and rapiers, as well a fine model of the Elizabethan Rose Theatre.
Tuesday, 28 September 2010
Friday, 24 September 2010
Angers, Maine-et-Loire, France
An attractive and prosperous city straddling the river Maine in north west France, Angers has enough sights to detain you for at least a day. As well as being home to two famous tapestries series, the fourteenth-century Apocalypse and the twentieth-century Chant du Monde, Angers boasts an ancient and massive citadel with 17 imposing, circular towers made with rings of black and fawn stones. This monolithic fortress is surrounded by a moat planted with elaborate topiary and flowerbeds arranged in geometric patterns. From near the main gates, which are reached by a stone drawbridge, there is a sweeping view of the river, lined with barges and crossed by a couple of stone bridges, adorned with flowers. North east of the citadel, atmospheric medieval lanes thread towards the striking twelfth-century white-brick cathedral with its distinctive twin spires. From the cathedral, wide cobbled steps, lined with flowers, flow down to fountains in front of the dual carriageway running alongside the Maine. It is also worth scouting around the shopping district centered on the Place du Ralliement, which is home to several popular restaurants and the Galeries Lafayette department store housed in a fine nineteenth century building with elegant black wrought iron balconies. In the summer of 2010, this square was being dug up to accommodate new tram lines and was essentially a building site. It is also worth wandering around the tranquil old courtyards near the Museum of Fine Arts with their eye catching sculptures. Angers has substance and style. 8/10
Wednesday, 22 September 2010
Château de la Villatte, near Laval, Pays de la Loire
Majestically situated on a hillside overlooking rolling green countryside near the Mayenne river, the nineteenth century Château de la Villatte has a handful of lovingly-furnished guests rooms and several acres of picturesque grounds. Well cared for, the chateau has a grand, stone hallway with a billiards table and a white marble staircase with a black wrought iron banister. The landing above the stairwell has been turned into a cosy little hideaway with a pleasant window seat. Tastefully decorated in period-style, the guest bedrooms have high ceilings, tall original windows, fine wooden floors and venerable antique furniture. They have their own bathrooms also boasting large windows and plenty of light and space. Two of the bedrooms have a small linking corridor and can be booked as a family suite, but you can't lock your doors.
Monday, 20 September 2010
La Braise, Rue Trinité, Laval, Pays de la Loire
Tucked away in an atmospheric back street in Laval's historic quarter, La Braise feels like a traditional French restaurant aimed at locals rather than tourists. Inside, the rugged white walls are decorated with lots of clutter, fairy-lights and postcards, while the tables are covered by white cloths and lit by chunky candles. On a recent visit, the sole waitress was friendly, but didn't speak English and was very inattentive as La Braise got busy later in the evening.You can eat a la carte or there is a 23 euro set menu with a couple of choices for each course. The starters can include a small, salty, but tasty, bowl of mussels, served with bacon, cheese, cream and shredded carrot. The main course options may include a kebab made up of chunks of beef, lamb, pork and veal. They aren't great cuts of meat, but are precisely cooked and are served with fried potatoes, some decent vegetables and choice of sauces, including some delicious Roquefort. One of the best options on the desert trolley is a rich, dark chocolate tart, served with a dollop of vanilla or orange ice cream. From the wine list, you can get half a bottle of innocuous Beaujolais for 10.5 euros. There is also a good selection of Bordeaux and Cotes du Rhone vintages. La Braise gradually fills up with locals and even on a Sunday evening, there can be quite a buzz by 9.30pm. 7/10
Friday, 17 September 2010
Laval, Pays de la Loire, France
Don't be put off by the drab suburbs, dominated by American-style drive-to stores and restaurants, Laval has a well-preserved and charming historic heart. You can park alongside the river Mayenne, which is straddled by several fine old bridges. On both sides of the river there are cobbled streets and ancient timber-framed buildings, but you'll find most of the sights on the west bank. Winding, largely-pedestrianised roads climb steeply up to the atmospheric medieval chateau and its newer (mostly nineteenth century) neighbour, next to the spacious Place de la Trémoille. Separated by a timber-framed sixteenth-century gatehouse, the two chateaux provide a picturesque backdrop to Laval's festival in late August, featuring free circus acts, bands and other entertainment. Nearby, is an attractive Romanesque cathedral and a small park flanked by the towering remains of the city's medieval stone walls, studded with imposing towers. On a Saturday, shaded by trees, locals throng around the scores of stalls that have set up for business in the sloping Place de la Trémoille. Their wares include plenty of French delicacies, which you can purchase and then consume at one of the tables outside the local bars (as long as you buy a drink). 8/10
Monday, 13 September 2010
La Brasserie du Théâtre, place du Ralliement, Angers
Occupying a prominent position on one of Angers' grander squares, la Brasserie du Théâtre is an imposing establishment in a distinguished neoclassical building. Out front, are more than a dozen spacious tables surrounded by comfortable wicker-style chairs, shaded by parasols and attended by a squad of smart, young waiters. The lengthy and appealing menu has a wide selection of salads, carpaccio dishes and platters of meat and fish. Served with lots of crispy fries, the carpaccio with mozzarella (13.4 euros) is a bit bland and really needs a side salad. But the smoked salmon and goats cheese salad (11.9 euros) is fresh and generous. Children are well catered for: the Menu Enfant (8.9 euros) for sprogs under six has a choice of three simple main courses, followed by desert, plus a fruit juice or pop. The Menu Junior (12 euros) for under-twelves is the same except the main courses, such as the seemingly home made hamburger and toast, are larger and more elaborate. The kids' fruit juices are tall and enticing, while their deserts include a hefty dollop of cream, topped with a biscuit and flanked by two balls of good ice cream, served on a specially-made plate, or a big bowl of rich chocolate mousse. La Brasserie du Théâtre is a comfortable venue for an enjoyable family lunch in the sun, but steer clear of the raw meat. 7/10
Sunday, 12 September 2010
The Derby Arms, Epsom Downs, Surrey
A whitewashed and heavily-refurbished Victorian inn standing isolated on the edge of Epsom Downs near the racecourse, The Derby Arms is a very refined pub with a predictable racing theme. But the celebration of racehorses is retrained and just about every furnishing and fitting in this unusually-polished watering hole is the epitome of quality and taste. In the meticulously-decorated bar, for example, the smart leather sofas are padded out with plump embroidered cushions, while white circular stone tabletops rest on ornate cast-iron legs. There is also a restaurant area with striped high-backed chairs and large, striking prints of racehorses and their trainers. Behind the bar are laid-back, but helpful, young blokes, while the prosperous clientele seem to be a mix of old and new money. There is an extensive and reasonably-priced menu. But if you just want a snack, you can get a small bowl of fat chips, topped with a big dollop of mayo, for just £2.50. The drinks are also competitively-priced, with a pint of rich and refreshing Aspall cider costing about £3.50. The Derby Arms is posh, but not too pretentious. 8/10
Friday, 10 September 2010
Cycling the Thames Down Link, south west London
Starting in Kingston-Upon-Thames, this well-signposted route is really designed for walkers, but much of its 15 miles can be cycled on an off-road bike to transfer from the sedate Thames Path to the challenging bridleways of the North Downs. The first half of the Thames Down Link is mostly drab and dull. Although it follows the narrow, winding Hogsmill River, the path is often through suburban scrub land awash with nettles and you have to cross the A3 using a grim subway. But the route becomes more appealing when it follows broader paths through the more rural Horton Country Park, followed by Epsom Common and Ashtead Common. After cutting through well-kept Ashtead Park, you have to negotiate an upmarket housing estate and then cross over the M25. From here, the route is a very straight, but undulating, Roman road, making for some fun descents and stiff climbs. After working your way through pleasant deciduous woodland, you emerge near the pretty village of Mickleham, where you can get a much-needed drink in The Running Horses pub. 6/10
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