Sunday, 8 November 2020

The Thames, East of Greenwich, London

 


On a surprisingly mild November day, the Thames is like a millpond. The meandering moody stretch between the Royal Naval College and the Thames Barrier is marked by industrial debris, shards of greenery, flashy riverside apartments, the O2 dome and the soaring cable car over the river.

Wednesday, 12 August 2020

Giardini Luzzati, Genoa



Stumble on Giardini Luzzati early in the evening and you might find talented eight year olds kicking a ball around and locals sipping aperitifs in this versatile open space in Genoa's old quarter. The square also affords views of some of the city's most venerable landmarks, including the charismatic bell towers of the 12th century San Donato church (below) and the Church of Sant'Agostino Genoa (above).

Chiesa di Santa Maria di Castello, Genoa

 



Dating from the 12th century, this well-preserved Romanesque church and convent of Santa Maria di Castello sits proudly on high ground in the heart of Genoa.

Hotel Palazzo Grillo, Piazza delle Vigne, Genoa

 


You may have to navigate some very narrow and seedy alleyways to reach the small square which is home to Hotel Palazzo Grillo. But it is worth the effort. Staying in this dignified and handsome historic building, which dates from 1545, is a treat.  Many of the 25 bedrooms, which are comfortable and well-equipped, still have striking period features and look out over the charismatic buildings clustered in the heart of the old city.

Le Rune, Salita Inferiore di Sant'Anna, Piazza del Portello, Genoa




One of many good restaurants woven into Genoa's tight-nit historic centre, Le Rune stands out for serving exceptional Italian cuisine at very moderate prices. With a regularly changing selection of five or so dishes (costing between €10 and €20 each) per course, the food is both imaginative and generous.  For example, one of the primo dishes (pictured above) combines the delicate flavours of three different porcini mushrooms with some excellent carpaccio. The pasta and secondi dishes also major on fresh ingredients expertly prepared. You can order a respectable bottle of local wine for just €15.  The outdoor tables are spread over a multi-level garden, which backs on to a funicular railway, adding to the atmosphere. With patient and friendly service, Le Rune's proprietors have perfected the art of the neighbourhood restauranteur.  9/10

Tuesday, 11 August 2020

Santa Margherita Ligure, Liguria, Italy

 


One of a clutch of resort towns on the Italian Riviera, Santa Margherita Ligure is a colourful and comfortable place nestling below the green hills of Liguria. Better still, it is easily reachable from Genoa via train. The beach is all pebbles, but that doesn't stop the locals lounging about in the sunshine.

Via XX Settembre, Genoa

 


The main shopping drag in Genoa, Via XX Settembre features elaborate mosaics, classical colonnades,  lofty stone arches, period street lamps and grandiose 19th century buildings. Although most of the shops are nothing special, this distinguished avenue is well worth a peek. 

Travello Beach, Near Rapello, Italy

 

A lovely little stretch of seaside, marred only by the continuous stream of high season traffic, Travello Beach has tall colourful houses, a pebbly bay and a wooded cove, which also serves as a memorial to locals that died in the Great War - many of the trees bear small plaques. There are also dreamy views across the small boats to the hills sloping down into the sea. Overlooking Travello is a sixteenth century watchtower. This is a fine spot to linger if you can find sufficient space to spread out.