Sunday, 30 August 2009

Jazz in Regent's Park, central London


For about six consecutive Sunday afternoons in July and August, Regent Park's tall, elegant bandstand is the venue for free jazz concerts by accomplished vocalists and musicians. You can soak up the mellow music and the sunshine lying on the grass, which is speckled with dry duck poo and feathers, or sit in one of the traditional wooden deck chairs (for which you have to pay) or bring your own rug. Food and drink from the nearby cafe is pricey and the queues at the takeaway counter can be 20 minutes or more. It might be quicker and cheaper to trek over to the small Tesco near Baker Street tube. Still, you'll enjoy the chilled-out atmosphere, the long shadows and the lovely setting between the serene lake and the spectacular and colourful flower displays in the nearby borders. 8/10

Empuries Beaches, near L'Escala, Catalonia


A series of arcs of clean fine sand overlooked by extensive Greco-Roman ruins, woods and fields, Empuries' beaches are rarely too crowded, even in the height of summer. To the south of the hamlet of Sant Marti, the fairly sheltered bays are good for swimming or messing about in the pedalos (12 euros for an hour). By contrast, north of the village, waves frequently crash into the much more open and windy beach, which has far-reaching views across to the mountains and resorts on the other side of the Gulf of Roses. Behind the beaches are showers, a couple of grim portaloos and tasteful wooden boardwalks, which wind their way through the picturesque dunes between San Marti and the edge of L'Escala. In an idyllic setting, Empuries' beaches are well worth travelling to. 8/10

Carrilet, L'Escala, Catalonia

Kitted out to look like a blue steam engine with a couple of carriages, the carrilet road train runs from Playa Montgo through Riells to L'Escala, past the fine beaches in front of the ancient ruins at Empuries, before terminating at the tiny clifftop hamlet of Sant Marti. Riding on the wooden benches in the partially-open carriages is a fun, if bumpy, way to travel and the convoluted route includes some sweeping views across the coastline and the Gulf of Roses. But, with its lengthy stops, the carrilet, which only runs once an hour in each direction, isn't exactly quick. Moreover, the ticket prices are confusing and expensive - families taking a round trip might be better off buying the discounted bundles. 6/10

Swimming pool, Can Miquel, Platja de Montgó, L'Escala, Catalonia,


If the kids tire of negotiating the stones under the water on Montgo's beach, this hotel's pristine outdoor swimming pool makes for a refreshing change. Surrounded by well-watered grass, luscious plants and red tarmac, the fairly shallow water flows around an island reachable via a small bridge - perfect for hide and seek. A day pass for adults costs 3.50 euros and for children 2.50 euros, but there is an additional charge for sun loungers. 6/10

Can Miquel, Platja de Montgó, L'Escala, Catalonia


In the summer season, you might need to be at Can Miquel by 8pm to grab one of the tables on the terrace overlooking the beach and the pretty bay. Otherwise, you may have to settle for one of the more mundane inside tables with cream cloths and smart napkins, but less atmosphere. The house rosé wine is under 7 euros a bottle, but it tastes like pop, so go for something pricier from the lengthy Spanish wine list. Among the smaller dishes, the sea food tagliatelle (about 8 euros) is made up of dark green pasta swimming in a rich fishy sauce mixed with a smattering of clams, prawns and mussels. For something bigger, sea food paella (15.50 euros per head) is hearty, but is salty and can taste a little burned - rather disappointing for the price. Alternatively, there is the fatty oven-cooked shoulder of lamb (16.60 euros), which is served with roasted asparagus, courgettes and potatoes. Unfortunately, the latter can be under-cooked in the middle and burnt round the edges. Kids might like the spaghetti bolognese (about 7 euros), which is large and comes with a generous helping of mince sauce. You can finish with one of the substantial deserts for about five euros or children might prefer one of the prepacked ice creams. Service is competent, but can be unenthusiastic. 6/10

Can Coll, Placa Major, Sant Marti D'Empuries, Catalonia


On an August evening, you may have to wait for an outside table in Sant Marti's pretty square where diners at Can Coll and its competing restaurants sit cheek by jowl. Service kicks off with some lame bread and a bowl of garlic butter, costing 75 euro cents a person, But the big wicker chairs with blue cushions are very comfortable and there is a lively atmosphere. The menu lists perhaps 20 pizzas (around 9 or 10 euros) with thin bases and a wide variety of toppings including walnuts, pine nuts and salmon, as well as the usual cheeses, anchovies, olives, hams and salamis. Alternatively, you can order a hefty slab of goat's cheese on a bed of very fresh salad (about 8 euros) or calamaris (9 euros) - an unaccompanied pile of fried squid rings with a lemon on the side. There is a large and commercial desert menu printed with photos of the extravagant sundaes, some costing the best part of 10 euros. But the drinks are reasonably priced - a 33cl beer costs 2.40 euros, while 50 cl of water is also 2 euros. Can Coll is a well-drilled operation and its waiters are unfailingly polite, but they can alternate between being inattentive and trying to hurry you as more potential customers arrive in the square. 7/10

Wednesday, 26 August 2009

Torre Laurentii Restaurant, Placa Paula Armet, Sant Llorenc de la Muga, Catalonia


In summer, head for one of Torre Laurentii's handful of tables in the pleasant leafy courtyard with an attractive fountain decorated with a Gaudi-esque blue and green mosaic. The cover (1.25 euros each) includes some crispy bread served with an olive and white bean dip. In addition to the standard menu, the waiter will list some seasonal dishes, which in August tend to revolve around tomatoes. For something a bit different, try the refreshing gazpacho (5.5 euros) served with a twist - olive oil ice cream. Another special is the mozzarella and tomato salad (8 euros), which includes at least four varieties of tomato, some green, some yellow, some dark red and some tomato-coloured. The flavour differences are subtle, but the array of colours looks good on the plate. The main courses include a neat pile of slow-cooked and juicy lamb (14 euros), topped by sweet, caramalised onions, on near-perfect, creamy mash potato. The rabbit and mushrooms (12.5 euros), again served with fine mashed potato, is expertly cooked and well-seasoned, but needs some green vegetables. The ravioli (8.5 euros, made with large sacks of fresh pasta filled with gorgonzola, is a good choice, if you aren't too hungry, but the salmon carpaccio (7 euros), doused in a vinegar, is rather bland.

Torre Laurentii Hotel, Placa Paula Armet, Sant Llorenc de la Muga, Catalonia


A very stylish boutique hotel housed in an venerable villa built into the ancient stone walls of a medieval village, Torre Laurentii is meticulously run by an American of Cuban extraction and his Catalan wife. With just seven rooms, the hotel has plenty of communal areas, including two lounges and a very wide stone terrace, with big comfortable wicker armchairs, overlooking a well-tended, enclosed garden. Throughout the sympathetically-restored building, original features are mixed tastefully with modern additions and amenities. On the second floor, the grand suite has its own private terrace commanding views across the village and the surrounding wooded hills.