Barcelona from the Air, Catalonia

 

As your plane comes into land, you may be treated to a fine view of the Catalan capital and the surrounding hills.

La Rambla, Figueres, Catalonia

 

A historic tree-lined square in the heart of Figueres, La Rambla has plenty of benches shaded from the heat of the Catalan sun. 

La Plaça España, Barcelona

 

From the top of the former bull ring on La Plaça España, you get a fine view of the ornate fountain in the middle of the roundabout, the neo-classical entrance to the Fira de Montjuïc exhibition space, complete with Venetian-style towers, and the grandeur of the Palau Nacional in the background. 

Barcelona Waterfront, Catalonia

 

The sail-shaped W Hotel is a prominent landmark on Barcelona's waterfront

Classic Cars at Girona Airport, Catalonia

 

An annual rally for classic cars that are at least 46 years old, Le Grand Tour travelled from Almeria to Zaragoza to Girona in 2021. The drivers parked the elegant old motors at Girona Airport before catching flights back to wherever they came from. In 2022, Le Grand Tour will travel from Girona via Andorra and Carcassonne through southern France to Toulon.

Gravel Ride Loop South from L'Escala, Catalonia

Involving some 300 metres of climbing, this 30 km loop takes in some rich scenery in just 90 minutes of intense riding on a mountain bike or gravel bike. To start you need to find Cami Del Termes, which runs east-to-west on the southern edge of L'Escala. As you head inland along this road, you'll come across a track (Cami Dels Escalencs) that plunges south (see pic below) into open countryside with fine views of the hills (see pic above) that are home to Castell del Montgrí. After a few kilometres, the track turns left and into Cami de Torre Ferrana, which heads down to the hamlet of Sobrestany, before skirting the main road and curving south to Ulla. From here, you follow suburban roads and tracks (marked for bikes) through Torroella de Montgrí (with the desolate castle high to your left). When you get to L'Estartit, you turn back north, climbing very steeply on a road (Carretera de l'Escala a l'Estartit) that takes you past an attractive stone manor house and up into the forest that covers the unpopulated high ground between the two seaside resort towns. For a while, this route becomes a rough track, covered in stones and scree, before descending to meet smooth, inviting tarmac for the fast run back to L'Escala.

Carretera de l'Escala a l'Estartit, near L'Escala, Catalonia

 

Running from Montgo towards L'Estartit, this serene forest road passes a camp site and climbs upwards through the trees before fizzling out into a gravel track that crosses the hill top.  It is a pleasure to cycle, particularly downhill (from south to north): As you swoop along this empty tarmac, you are sure to have a smile on your face.

Sant Pere de l'Escala, Catalonia

 

This substantial eighteenth century church in the heart of L'Escala has a handsome Baroque facade, almost worthy of a cathedral. 

Rupit, Catalonia

In the Collsacabra mountains, the ancient village of Rupit straddles the eponymous river. Even on a tranquil sunny day in Autumn, there is an adventure sports vibe - the buildings have the kind of solidity you might associate with Alpine settlements. You can park your car for a few euros and wander across the hanging rope bridge into the heart of Rupit, where you will find hardy medieval architecture, cafes, craft shops and probably scores of fellow tourists. Still, you can quickly lose the throng by venturing into the atmospheric side streets and discovering the many different vantage points from which you can admire the way in which Rupit blends perfectly into the rugged Catalan landscape.

Walks around L' Avenc de Tavertet, Catalonia

Renovated by the commentator and politician Matthew Parris and his family, L' Avenc de Tavertet is a sixteenth century manor house set on a stunning escarpment. To get up to the two small car parks north of the big house, you need to take some tortuous country roads, complete with potholes and steep gradients. Alternatively, you could cycle here or hike part of the long-distance GR-151 route, which traverses the crags of L'Avenc. In any case, it is well worth the effort for the far-reaching views from what feels like the roof of the world. There are some trails that work their way through the undulating forest behind the house. Although the signs are intermittent, you should be able to find your way back to the cliff edge.

Olympic Flame Monument, L'Escala, Catalonia

 

On the northern edge of L'Escala is a dramatic sculpture by Rosa Serra to commemorate the arrival of the Olympic torch ahead of the 1992 Barcelona Olympic Games.

El Patio Bistrot Tapes, Passeig Mar, L'Escala, Catalonia

A buzzy bistro for an informal meal, El Patio offers classic Catalan tapas with aplomb. Served on a mixture of slate tiles and white plates, the food is fresh and filling. Although the decor is nothing to write home about, the covered terrace is comfortable and spacious. 7/10

L'Escala to Pals by Mountain Bike, Catalonia

 

The best part of 50km, the round trip between L'Escala and Pals is a flattish ride through a relatively peaceful part of the Costa Brava. Once you leave L'Escala, you can take a back route that follows minor roads and dusty tracks to skirt the stark hills that overlook Torroella de Montgrí. After you pass through the pleasant town, you'll need to take the busy C-31 down to Pals. However, the road is safe enough for cyclists and, for the last stretch, you can follow some tracks into the medieval village of Pals - a fine place to stop for refreshments before retracing your route. 

L'Escala to Cadaqués by Mountain Bike, Catalonia

 

If you have a mountain bike, you can mix and match roads and trails on the 100km round trip between L'Escala and Cadaqués - a charismatic and picturesque seaside town nestling below the hills north of the Bay of Roses. For the challenging stretch between Roses and Cadaqués, you can take the mountain road (GI-614), which carries a fair bit of traffic, or a rocky trail closer to the coast. Both routes through the Cap de Creus Natural park are very scenic, but the latter (marked as cycle route 12 on the local leisure map) has the edge when it comes to broad vistas and you don't have to worry about cars.  As the trail is tough and long - it goes up hill and down dale - it is probably best to only take it in one direction, particularly in the heat of summer. In any case, make sure you refuel properly, while enjoying the cobbled streets and handsome white-washed buildings of Cadaqués. 8/10 

More cycle routes in Catalonia can be found here.

Castellfollit de la Roca, Catalonia

Built on a basalt crag, about 1 km in length and 50 metres high, Castellfollit de la Roca has a medieval core built from the local volcanic rock.

Besalú, Catalonia

Famous for its fortified 12th century Romanesque bridge, Besalú is a well-preserved county town with a clutch of medieval Christian and Jewish buildings.  If you get there early enough, you'll have the cobbled riverside walkway and atmospheric old streets and squares almost to yourself

Olot, Catalonia

The capital of the volcanic Garrotxa region nestling in the foothills of the Pyrenees, Olot is a popular base for road cyclists and mountain bikes alike. Although the town sprawls across the rolling countryside and it has all the amenities, hotels and restaurants you'll need, the historic and commercial heart is pretty compact.  Charismatic modernista buildings are dotted around the old town and the substantial Church of Sant Esteve forms an imposing centrepiece, but Olot is not pretty in the way some Catalan settlements are. In fact, it has a slightly raw edge, giving it the character of a working town, rather than a tourist trap. You can enjoy a few days here.

Kayaking on the River Ter, Catalonia

At the village of Colomers, you can hire kayaks for a two hour cruise downstream the Ter to Verges. It costs about 25 euros for each adult and backrests are another 5 euros per kayak, but the river is both serene and scenic. You'll see turtles basking in the sunshine, the lush riverbanks are a verdant green and you can float much of the way.  In August, there are a few stretches of choppy water, but nothing taxing. The biggest hazard is probably other kayaks. Try to get there before 10am, so you should have the water to yourself and you'll avoid the queue for a boat. A minibus will collect you at Verges and ferry you back to Colomers. 7/10

Walking the Parc Natural del Montgrí, Catalonia

Cutting through shady pine woods and traversing rocky inclines, the undulating cliff path in the Parc Natural Del Montgri makes for a fine walk. Although it can take you perilously close to the cliff edge, the views out to sea are sublime and the park is a welcome respite from the crowded beaches in August.

Begur, Catalonia

Perched on the top of a steep hill, Begur is crowned by a dilapidated sixteenth century castle. It is a stiff walk or cycle to the very top, but from here there are far-reaching views of the Costa Brava's lush coastline and Begur's beguiling beaches.