Friday, 31 August 2007

The Fine Line, Northcote Road, Clapham Junction

A former bank now kitted-out as yet another light and airy bar. But the decor is more ornate and imaginative than rival chains such as All Bar One or Pitcher & Piano. Most of the clientele are in their late twenties, affluent and not noticeably edgy or trendy. Even on a Friday or Saturday night, there is room to maneuver and the table service is efficient and friendly. The beers, such as Staropramen, and the snacks are pretty standard for this type of bar and a little pricey, but the food menu is more distinctive and varied. A reasonable meeting and eating place to start a big night out. 6/10

Wembley Stadium, north west London

A vast and almost magnificent edifice rising above a grim, run-down part of northern London, the new Wembley Stadium is a fitting, if grotesquely expensive, replacement to its historic and much-loved predecessor. The semi-circular arc that rises from the retractable roof and swoops across the sky makes the stadium a distinctive landmark for miles around. When you first enter one of the stands, you will catch your breath as you take in the 90,000 seats all within close proximity and with a good view of the hallowed turf. Each fan is allocated a plush and comfortable red seat, yet the atmosphere is as charged as ever. There are two huge screens, which replay goals and good chances, at each end of the ground and the stadium is flush with toilets. Unfortunately, leaving the new Wembley isn't much faster than it was with the original. The crowds and the scarcity of transport links mean it can easily take more than an hour to get down Wembley Way to the Wembley Park tube station, which is only about half a mile from the striking and serene bronze statue of Bobby Moore in front of the stadium. Even so, this is a fine home for the England team and the pressure is now on the players to demonstrate it is also a fitting one. 8/10

Wednesday, 29 August 2007

Roy's Bakery and Coffee Shop, Front Street, Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear

Well-stocked with a broad range of traditional British loaves, stotties, buns, pasties, sausage rolls and cakes, Roy's is something of an institution in Tynemouth and has a loyal following among residents and children from the local public school. The middle-aged ladies in aprons serving behind the counter are both friendly and efficient. There are tables inside and outside on the wide pavement, which can be a suntrap on the few warm days Tynemouth enjoys. The food is simple and fattening, but prices are low - a coffee, a fluffy cheese and onion pasty and two ice creams cost just £3.50. 7/10

The Studio, Front Street, Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear

Behind the Georgian facade of this town house on Tynemouth's main drag is a homely tea room decorated with dozens of amateur water colour paintings, which are for sale at modest prices. Most menu items are good value and of generous proportions - a large hot chocolate topped with plenty of whipped cream is just £1.50. But there are exceptions - a slim slice of the excessively sweet home-made cakes can cost a chunky £2.50. Service is equally erratic, swinging from warm to dour depending on the waitress, one of whom has trouble adding up a bill. Still, the Studio is a pleasant place to shelter on a wet or windy day and there is a good view of the pretty garden from the tables at the back. 7/10

Sunday, 26 August 2007

Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear, England


Anchored by a moated and ruined medieval castle and priory perched on a headland overlooking the river, Tynemouth is one of the most picturesque and prosperous places in the North East. Front Street, the Eighteenth Century high street, is now home to an eclectic collection of cafes, bars, restaurants and off-beat shops. To the north is a grand Victorian crescent overlooking the sea and to the west are some fine Georgian terraces. On a clear day, you should stroll down to the priory and then along the pier (if it's open) or up to Collingwood's Monument - a statue of a local naval officer, who served with Nelson, mounted on a monolithic stone dais. Climb up the steps for a good view across the river to South Shields. Tynemouth is also blessed with a couple of small beaches protected by rocky coves and a large, well-preserved Victorian station, which hosts flea markets at weekends. If you are out on a Friday, Saturday or Sunday evening, you will find yourself rubbing shoulders with hordes of enthusiastic middle-aged drinkers, partying like they are still 25. 8/10

X60 Bus, Newcastle to Scarborough

Running just once a day and only in the summer, this aging double-decker bus provides a bumpy, but relatively quick ride (2 hours 45 minutes) between Newcastle and the seaside resort of Scarborough. If the traffic is good, the driver seems to ignore the schedule and the bus can get in early. From the top-deck, there are good views over the purple-tinged wilderness of the heather-strewn North Yorkshire Moors and of Whitby and its haunting ruined abbey. In theory, a family could do a day trip with a North East Explorer ticket for just 14 pounds, but in practice you wouldn't want to spend five hours of a single day on this bus. 7/10

The Hatless Heron, Church Street, Whitby

An unusually restrained and upmarket cafe-bar in cobbled streets below the Abbey, The Hatless Heron stands out from the cheap and cheerful fish and chip restaurants that predominate in Whitby. Rather than plastic seats and Formica table tops, the Hatless Heron has wooden and leather furniture. But this place isn't snobby or expensive. The attractive young staff are friendly and helpful, recommending free tap water above the pricey bottled variety, for example. There is a wide range of snacks available. The baked potatoes (£3.50), which come with the usual range of cheese and ham fillings and a reasonable side salad, washed down with one of the premium lagers on draught, make for a good-value lunch. 7/10

Friday, 24 August 2007

Whitby, Yorkshire


An atmospheric, but rough seaside town with cobbled streets, high harbour walls and a replica tall ship, overlooked by a ruined abbey. Despite the many tacky arcades, shops and attractions riding on Whitby's tenuous link with Dracula, the swashbuckling and smuggling of the Eighteenth Century lingers on among the steep narrow alleyways and traditional pubs. The town is awash with fish restaurants, but the pick of the shoal is the Magpie Cafe. Ignore the rain and join the queue outside to enjoy the ultra-fresh seafood at reasonable prices. Afterwards, cross over the bridge to the other side of the harbour and thread your way through the eclectic mix of shops in the cobbled streets before climbing the 195 steps up to the church in front of the Abbey. From there you get a sweeping view of Whitby's piers, the higgly-piggly rooftops, elegant Regency terraces and the moors beyond. Bewarned, the grog flows freely in Whitby at weekends and you might see the odd scuffle. 8/10