Eslington Tower, Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

The mysteriously-named, but handsome Eslington Tower is part of a curved terrace built in red brick with stone dressings in 1877. As noted by the conservation area report, the façade features two storey bay windows and the corner bays are emphasised by "projecting turrets at third storey roof level with steeply pitching slate roofs like witches hats."  

Highbury, Jesmond, Newcastle Upon Tyne

 

Elegant Edwardian houses line the east side of Highbury, which overlooks Lavender Fields, which borders Newcastle's Town Moor. Many still have original wrought iron railings.

The Irvin Building, Union Road, North Shields, Tyneside

Built in 1913, the Grade II listed Irvin Building is a distinctive and distinguished presence on North Shields Fish Quay. It was built in 1913 for Richard Irvin and Sons Ltd., which owned a fleet of more than 30 fishing boats, and were fish salesmen and auctioneers, according to Newcastle University. 

Gladstone Terrace, Newcastle Upon Tyne

A quiet cobbled street with late Victorian middle class properties built between 1875 and 1876, Gladstone Terrace is now mostly occupied by students. It overlooks a railway siding.

The Victorian Back Streets of Gosforth, Newcastle Upon Tyne

 

One of the most upmarket parts of Newcastle, Gosforth still has Victorian terraces backing on to cobbled roads.

The Town Wall, Pink Lane, Newcastle Upon Tyne

 

The Town Wall pub occupies Bewick House, a Grade II listed building which was once home and workplace of Northumberland artist, naturalist and engraver Thomas Bewick. In 1821, when the building was converted into a hall for the incorporated company of Slaters and Tylers, the workmen found a large quantity of shillings and sixpences of the coinage of Edward I, according to the pub's web site.

Jesmond Road West, Newcastle Upon Tyne

 

A long and well-preserved mid-19th century terrace, Jesmond Road West no longer runs through to Jesmond and is now a quiet corner of Newcastle's city centre. Some of the grander houses on Carlton Terrace, on the north side of the road, are listed.

Grey Street, Newcastle Upon Tyne

Newcastle's Grade I-listed neoclassical Theatre Royal, which dates from 1837, sits at the top of the gracious Georgian curve of Grey Street, which slopes down towards the Tyne.

Tynemouth Lodge, Tynemouth Road, Tyne & Wear

A longstanding real-ale pub between Tynemouth and North Shields, Tynemouth Lodge has kept a laser-like focus on the quality of its beer, making it perennially popular with legions of middle aged locals, many sporting beards. The decor is dated, but no-one comes here for the decor.

The Beaches of Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear

The remains of Tynemouth Priory and Castle overlook King Edward's Bay

Cycling National Route 1, Tynemouth to Newbiggin-by-the-Sea, Tyne & Wear

Picturesque in patches, this 30km stretch of the Coast and Castles section of the N1 cycle route can be windy and desolate. While the ride along the seaside from Tynemouth to Blyth is quite scenic, taking you through rural areas and sand dunes, the stretch from Blyth to Newbiggin-by-the-Sea takes in battered old industrial sites and bleak suburban housing estates. Still, Blyth itself has character, with its quirky mix of docks, red brick back streets, wind turbines and gentil parks. Moreover, there is a fun winding undulating detour inland along the River Blyth. Once you escape Bedlington and Cambois, Newbiggin itself is also quite easy-on-the-eye. As the N1 is pretty well signposted and generally off-road, it is easy to stay on route and stay safe. 7/10

Priors Terrace, Tynemouth

A clutch of early Victorian terraces in an enviable location,  Priors Terrace and its neighbours have views over Priors Park, Tynemouth Priory and Castle, and the mouth of the River Tyne. Moreover, some of the elegant period features, such as the wrought iron balconies and the lampposts, remain intact. Unusually, each house has a front garden on the opposite side of the very quiet road.

York House Hotel, Park Ave, Whitley Bay, Tyne & Wear

A well run and pristine guest house in a quiet quarter of the seaside town of Whitley Bay overlooking a patch of green, the York House Hotel is a pricey, but pleasant, place to stay. A riot of swirling patterns and soft fabrics, the decor won't be to everyone's tastes. And, if the heating is on, the hotel can be excessively stuffy as the numerous radiators pump out heat. However, the accommodation is spacious and well-kitted out, the beds are comfortable and the WiFi is fast. The rooms are also quiet and equipped with smart en-suite and self-catering facilities. Downstairs, there is a plush lounge complete with sparkling chandelier and gleaming marble fireplace. With a large bay window and plenty of space, the dining room is also impressive, as are the breakfasts. You are served good filter coffee at your table, along with chunky toast, accompanied by small pots of Bonne Maman jams and marmalade. The cheerful staff also offer a small selection of hot dishes. The English breakfast is made with fine ingredients, while the special might be a tasty bagel stuffed with smoked salmon, chives and cream cheese, topped with hard boiled egg. The cold buffet includes an appealing fruit salad, granola, blueberries, small boxes of cereal, yogurts, an array of decent fruit juices and even a bottle of bubbly in an ice bucket.  Although Whitley Bay has seen better days, the York House Hotel is in its prime. 8/10

ORA, Front Street, Tynemouth, Tyneside

Towards the seaward end of Front Street, ORA is one of a new generation of aspirational eateries  taking over Tynemouth. The large windows open out on to a handful of tables on the street, surrounded by pot plants, creating a pavement cafe vibe when the sun is out. The fairly funky interior features a stylish metallic spiral staircase leading up a private dining room. ORA's lengthy lunch menu features a broad selection of tapas, plus some imaginative sandwiches served in your choice of bread - ciabatta, wholemeal bloomer or wrap. They can also be toasted - the brie, bacon and mango chutney on ciabatta is heated to the point where it is melting before your eyes, but it tastes great. The meatball melt, in a tomato and basil sauce, with cheese is also very appetising. The sandwiches are served with some lacklustre crisps, which really need the accompanying garlic dip, and could do with at little salad. But they are still good value at less than five quid apiece. The coffee is mediocre, but but can get jugs of tap water: Just make sure the glasses are clean. The table service by the cosmopolitan staff is slow, but assured and friendly. 7/10

Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear

Tynemouth's distinguished Early Victorian Front Street decked out for the Mouth of the Tyne Festival

Allard's Lounge, Front Street, Tynemouth, Tyneside

An eclectic, exuberant cafe-bar on Tynemouth's Front Street, Allard's Lounge serves a decent selection of seafood, meat and vegetable tapas. There are a few tables outside, but head inside for some buzz and bling. With a very high ceiling, the lounge bar is decorated with skull and cross bones wallpaper, glittering chandeliers, back-lit, gold-framed mirrors and Arts and Crafts padded benches. Claim some seats and then order at the bar, where there is Moretti beer on tap. Among the tapas, the plump king prawns in a creamy chilli sauce (£5.95) pack flavour, as does the patatas bravas, which is served with a big dollop of alioli and tomato sauce. You can also get pots of tasty seafood or chicken paella (both £4.95), while the halloumi and chorizo (£3.95) is salty, but succulent. Be sure to order the chips, which are fat juicy wedges of potato: some of the best you'll find. And the olives in garlic (£2.95) are plump and moreish. But avoid the lamb on skewers, served with a creamy mint sauce, which can be disappointing - the meat may be tough and dry.  Order enough tapas and it might be accompanied by some passable bread and olives. Allard's can get very busy and the service brusque. Although the food can take a while, this cafe-bar has enough atmosphere to keep you well entertained. 8/10

National Express train, London to Newcastle

Book well in advance to get a reasonable price for a return ticket on the fast and busy east coast line from London, up through Peterborough, York and Newcastle, to Edinburgh. Fortunately, your advance booking comes with an automatic seat reservation or you might end up sitting on the floor in the luggage-strewn corridors between carriages. Although there are electric sockets next to most seats and free WiFi on board, the connection is intermittent as the train speeds its way north. The landscape on route is mostly flat and dull, there is no longer an on-board magazine and the drinks, snacks and mediocre sandwiches, available from the buffet car or trolley, are pricey. Still, the train is the fastest and most convenient way to get from central London to Newcastle. 6/10

The Cannon, Earsdon, Tyne & Wear

The Cannon is an old-fashioned, well-kept pub surrounded by stone nineteenth century houses, opposite a distinguished church in the endearing village of Earsdon. Inside, there is maroon upholstery everywhere, while the tables can be cramped and the stools small, so be choosy about where you sit. The walls are lined with prints of very dated paintings of pastoral scenes in ornate gold frames. But what pulls in the dozens of elderly regulars is the keenly-priced food and hand-pulled beers. The real ales include Directors (a fine, smooth pint) and Pedigree, while there is the usual array of lagers.

Proper mushy peas
Most of the main courses (around six to eight pounds) are served with a choice of chubby chips, decent new potatoes or a jacket potato. On a Saturday lunchtime, the corn-beef hash pie sells out quickly, but the hungry will find the mediocre Highland sausages, served with melted cheese, bacon, proper mushy peas, onion rings and sweet corn, is quite an appetising combination. There are also several different variations on fish, chips and mushy peas. The fish tends to be wrapped in light and relatively-healthy batter, while the flesh inside is succulent. Or you can opt for a large, crisply-cooked baked potato with a prawn mayonnaise topping, a substantial side-serving of tuna, and stacks of fresh salad. There aren't any children's meals and, oddly, the staff insist that you pay in cash straight after your food arrives, rather than when you order. 7/10

Roy's Bakery and Coffee Shop, Front Street, Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear

Well-stocked with a broad range of traditional British loaves, stotties, buns, pasties, sausage rolls and cakes, Roy's is something of an institution in Tynemouth and has a loyal following among residents and children from the local public school. The middle-aged ladies in aprons serving behind the counter are both friendly and efficient. There are tables inside and outside on the wide pavement, which can be a suntrap on the few warm days Tynemouth enjoys. The food is simple and fattening, but prices are low - a coffee, a fluffy cheese and onion pasty and two ice creams cost just £3.50. 7/10

The Studio, Front Street, Tynemouth, Tyne & Wear

Behind the Georgian facade of this town house on Tynemouth's main drag is a homely tea room decorated with dozens of amateur water colour paintings, which are for sale at modest prices. Most menu items are good value and of generous proportions - a large hot chocolate topped with plenty of whipped cream is just £1.50. But there are exceptions - a slim slice of the excessively sweet home-made cakes can cost a chunky £2.50. Service is equally erratic, swinging from warm to dour depending on the waitress, one of whom has trouble adding up a bill. Still, the Studio is a pleasant place to shelter on a wet or windy day and there is a good view of the pretty garden from the tables at the back. 7/10