Besalú, Catalonia

Famous for its fortified 12th century Romanesque bridge, Besalú is a well-preserved county town with a clutch of medieval Christian and Jewish buildings.  If you get there early enough, you'll have the cobbled riverside walkway and atmospheric old streets and squares almost to yourself

Olot, Catalonia

The capital of the volcanic Garrotxa region nestling in the foothills of the Pyrenees, Olot is a popular base for road cyclists and mountain bikes alike. Although the town sprawls across the rolling countryside and it has all the amenities, hotels and restaurants you'll need, the historic and commercial heart is pretty compact.  Charismatic modernista buildings are dotted around the old town and the substantial Church of Sant Esteve forms an imposing centrepiece, but Olot is not pretty in the way some Catalan settlements are. In fact, it has a slightly raw edge, giving it the character of a working town, rather than a tourist trap. You can enjoy a few days here.

Kayaking on the River Ter, Catalonia

At the village of Colomers, you can hire kayaks for a two hour cruise downstream the Ter to Verges. It costs about 25 euros for each adult and backrests are another 5 euros per kayak, but the river is both serene and scenic. You'll see turtles basking in the sunshine, the lush riverbanks are a verdant green and you can float much of the way.  In August, there are a few stretches of choppy water, but nothing taxing. The biggest hazard is probably other kayaks. Try to get there before 10am, so you should have the water to yourself and you'll avoid the queue for a boat. A minibus will collect you at Verges and ferry you back to Colomers. 7/10

Walking the Parc Natural del Montgrí, Catalonia

Cutting through shady pine woods and traversing rocky inclines, the undulating cliff path in the Parc Natural Del Montgri makes for a fine walk. Although it can take you perilously close to the cliff edge, the views out to sea are sublime and the park is a welcome respite from the crowded beaches in August.

Begur, Catalonia

Perched on the top of a steep hill, Begur is crowned by a dilapidated sixteenth century castle. It is a stiff walk or cycle to the very top, but from here there are far-reaching views of the Costa Brava's lush coastline and Begur's beguiling beaches.

The Bay of Roses, Catalonia

A sweeping 18km arc of Catalan coastline near the French border, the Bay of Roses boasts long, sandy beaches, waves, wind and relatively little development for much of its length.

Cadaqués, Catalonia

Close to the French border and the former stomping ground of Salvador Dalí, the white-washed seaside town of Cadaqués retains a remote and bohemian vibe distinct from that of the rest of the Costa Brava. A picturesque port surrounded by hills, the town has both charm and character.  With bougainvillea in abundance and hints of the surrealist style favoured by Dalí, Cadaqués is an antidote to the bland beach resorts that plague parts of the Med. Although tourists are here in force in August, the extended bay with its pebbly beach seems to absorb them easily enough, making the town a pleasant place to explore.

Restaurante Origens, L'Escala, Catalonia

Offering a generous three-course menu for 25 euros, including wine and water, Restaurante Origens serves traditional Catalan and Spanish fare made from very fresh ingredients.  To start, the anchovies on tomato bread is exceptional, while the ham and melon is also a good choice. Among the main courses, the fideuà is flavoursome and filling. Although Origens' decor is a bit dated, there is a sea view, the air con is effective and the service is smooth, particularly early evening which can be quiet. And you might get to sample some delicious caviar as an appetiser. 8/10