Hotel Sv. Mihovil, Trijl, Croatia

A waterside hotel dating from the former Yugoslavia, Hotel Sv. Mihovil is now a base for adventure holidays on the Cetina river. A white washed modernist building in various states of disrepair, the hotel has the air of a sanatorium despite the small pool, a dilapidated games room with a table tennis table and pool table, and an outside terrace from where you can admire the big graffiti sign on the opposite bank that reads "Hadjuk Split Ultras." In an effort to lift the mood, the hallways, landings and spacious rooms are dotted with large prints of people having fun white water rafting, canoeing and canyoning. Although they are quite big, the en-suite bedrooms are very basic. The walls are paper thin, while the furnishings are cheap and distressed. There can be a strange smell in the bathrooms and key items, such as bath plugs, may be missing. There may also be telephone wires protruding from the bathroom walls. The reception staff are friendly enough, but they seem to be able to do little about these wrinkles. Still, the setting on the river is a bit special and there are plenty of shops (including a supermarket), bars and restaurants nearby.

Pizzeria Marinero, Trijl, Croatia

A cheap and cheerful neighbourhood restaurant in the riverside town of Trijl, Marinero sells generous pizzas, salads and other lunchtime staples at generous prices. A filling medium pizza is just 40 kuna and a seafood salad only 30 kuna, while a small pizza margherita can be had for just 25 kuna - only five kuna more than a large bottle of water.  A large octopus salad costs 50 kuna. The food is generally tasty, but can be a bit salty. Although the decor is a little dated and downmarket, the outside terrace is pleasant enough. Marinero is justifiably popular with locals and guests at the Hotel SV. Mihovil opposite. 7/10

Konoba Varoš, Ban Mladenova, Split, Croatia

Although it doesn't look too promising from the outside, Konoba Varoš attracts a steady stream of locals and in-the-know tourists. Arrive early enough and you can sit in one of the cluttered rooms in the cavernous interior or one of the shaded tables out the front.  The risottos here are very good: The ingredients are fresh and plump, and the food is expertly cooked. A seafood or scampi risotto costs 78 kuna, as does the seafood linguini, while the black cuttlefish risotto is 85 kuna. A beer is just 16 kuna, while a big bottle of water is 15 kuna. The waiters dress in traditional costume and vary from cheerful to grumpy, depending on who you get. 7/10

Canyoning on the Cetina River, Croatia

Parts of the Cetina River are tailored made for canyoning, which involves clambering over rocks, floating down waterways on your back and jumping into pools. Only a few kilometres inland, in the village of Zadvarje, you can hire a wet suit and life-jacket and recruit a guide. Once you have made the steep (rope-assisted) descent into the 180 metre-deep canyon, the guide will take you on a testing or traumatic route downstream depending on whether you have chosen the standard option or the extreme option. In the summer, you won't be the only group of tourists making the trip. Although there is plenty of space on most stretches, you may find yourself queuing for some of the rock jumps. At one point, you need to work your way round a 50 metre waterfall (Velika Gubavica) by stumbling through a dark tunnel cut into the side of the canyon. Towards the end, the bold can make some very high jumps (up to 10 metres) into deep rock pools. Although the route is only a few kilometres long, it can take a large group several hours to navigate the full course. Even in summer, the water is cold and clear.  You can hire canyoning shoes, but your trainers should have just enough traction. Note you'll need bare hands to help your grip on to the rocks, but you may find you shave some skin off your finger tips. All in all,  this is an exhausting and exhilarating adventure. 8/10

Cycling from Trijl to Gala along the Cetina River, Croatia

The tourist office in Trijl has a map of local cycle rides. Many of these involve steep climbs, but if you are looking for something flat, several cycle trails meander through the grassland banking the Cetina river, its tributaries and other waterways between Trijl and Gala. Unfortunately the Cetina itself is often obscured by vegetation and you may get chased by the odd grumpy dog. Although the gradients are very gentle, the rough terrain can be hard going and the routing is tricky in places.

Split Old Town, Croatia

The Bell Tower, Cathedral of St Domnius, Split, Croatia

In the heart of Split's old town, the Cathedral of St Domnius has a towering Romanesque belfry, reconstructed in 1908 after the original collapsed. For the princely sum of 20 kuna, you can head up to the Belfry. The staircases are very open and the steps can feel a bit treacherous in rain and wind, but they won't be crowded in these conditions. And the 360-degree views of this historic city and the meandering Croatian coastline are worth the climb.

Trg Republike, Split, Croatia

A surprisingly open space not far from central Split's maze of medieval alleys, the Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a pleasant place to while away an hour over a beer or ice cream. As well as the distant view of the sea, you can admire the red and pastel neo-Renaissance 19th century architecture, the smooth flagstones and the laundry hanging from some of the windows.