Walk from Moutiers-au-Perche, Normandy

From Moutiers-au-Perche's brooding medieval church, perched on a hillside above the village, you can follow a 6.5 km circular walk through luscious woods and farmland. Although the route takes you past some open fields, home to a herd of fawn-coloured cows and the odd frisky bull, you spend much of the walk surrounded by trees with little to see. The route ends with a steep climb back to the church from which there are sweeping views over the rooftops of the village to the verdant countryside beyond. 5/10

Stroll around Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei, Normandy

While Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei doesn't quite live up to its billing as one of the "most beautiful villages in France," it is blessed with a lovely setting on a bend in the river Sarthe. The main square is tarnished by the plastic tables of a couple of tourist-orientated cafes, but it is a short stroll down to a picturesque stone bridge overlooked by resident artists' workshops and studios. On the other side of the main square is another charming stretch of the river where you can watch dozens of dragonflies buzz in and out of the reeds, while admiring the towering old forest on the other side of the Sarthe. Follow the riverside path left for six hundred yards or so and you come to a small chapel marking the start of a path leading back up the hill past the village's weather-beaten eleventh century Romanesque church. 7/10

Sées, Normandy

Heading south on the autoroute through Normandy towards Le Mans, you will glimpse the distinctive twin spires of Sées' thirteenth century Gothic cathedral. Up close, the cathedral dominates this peaceful and prosperous town. Inside, you can admire the intricate stain glass windows, the light and airy nave and the graceful, soaring ceiling. Nearby are narrow medieval lanes, an elegant nineteenth century town hall and several other fine period buildings. Although Sées attracts few tourists, it is a pleasant place to pass a couple of hours. 7/10

Chateau de Villiers, near Essay, Normandy

A small, but perfectly-formed, moated country house dating from the sixteenth century, Chateau de Villiers sits in splendid isolation in a large plot of land overlooking rolling fields. The steeply sloping roof, the shuttered windows, the miniature bridge across the moat and the venerable outbuildings make this chateau, owned by a young and friendly family, a charming place to stay. Inside, the guest and the family rooms still have their original fireplaces, high ceilings and other period features, plus the appropriate furnishings. Two adjoining large rooms at the front, for example, are kitted out in all the flowery and finery of the Haute Epoque style. The emphasis on authenticity and homeliness means the guest rooms (about 100 euros per room per night for bed and breakfast) lack many of the conveniences found in most hotels, such as televisions, phones, kettles, power showers and even external locks. The gardens, complete with hen house, vegetable plot and paddock, also have an old-world feel, and it is surprising to find one of the barns contains a flashy spa. Breakfast is served in an atmospheric dining room with a huge antique radiator, a yellowing bust of a bearded aristocrat on the mantle piece and a vintage gun hanging on one wall. You take your place at one of the handful of round tables set with fine table cloths, posh cutlery and smart napkins. Breakfast consists of orange juice, coffee with warm milk, fresh bread and butter, moist banana cake or madeleines.

Taverne Au Normandy, Place de La Cathedrale, Sees, Normandy

Behind an appealing burgundy facade, opposite Sees' majestic cathedral, is a traditional restaurant with a rustic, homely ambiance. Below the wooden beam ceilings, the walls are decorated with a bison's head, a deer's head and even a startled stuffed fox, while one wall is covered with dozens of framed stills from Joan D'Arc, which was partly filmed in Sees. Unfortunately, the overall effect is diluted by the waiters' white t-shirts emblazoned with a bison's head, and the laminated lengthy menus, which list scores of dishes including pizzas, omelets, crepes, traditional French specialities and even some Tex-Mex food. Still, Taverne Au Normandy serves huge, tasty portions and the cheapest fixed menu (18.50 euros for three courses), in particular, is great value.

A massive meringue glace
To start, for example, you can enjoy a great big bowl of peppery fish soup served with a heap of grated cheese and eight croutons. The main courses include a plate of juicy duck medallions accompanied by a hunk of artichoke, a pleasant plum sauce, crispy slivers of potato and some salad. You can top that with a massive meringue glace covered in warm chocolate sauce and surrounded by whipped cream and two scoops of coffee ice cream. Even the salads are very filling. The tomato salad (4.55 euros) is two huge chopped tomatoes lying on a forest of lettuce doused in French dressing, while the lardons salad (11.50 euros) features scores of bacon bits, pieces of Roquefort cheese, walnuts, plus toast and butter. The children's menu (8.50 euros) includes an almost adult-size serving of respectable ham, French fries and salad, followed by a couple of scoops of ice cream served in a vase-style glass. Whatever you order at the Taverne Au Normandy, you probably won't need the basket of bread. The wine list includes a 50cl pitcher of drinkable Cote de Bourg for just 6.90 euros. Service is generally swift and, full and happy, you will be tempted to tip generously. 8/10

Rouen, Normandy

The ancient capital of upper Normandy boasts an unusually extensive medieval centre with scores of tall, stately, timber-framed houses and cobbled streets, many pedestrianised. Within a few hundred yards of each other is an imposing and lavishly-carved Gothic cathedral dating from the twelfth century and an equally substantial, but not quite so ornate, church built in the fourteenth century. It is also worth seeking out the eye catching and colourful gold clock mounted on an aging archway over one of the main shopping streets and the extraordinary array of gargoyles and statues that adorn the newly-cleaned Gothic Palais de Justice. As you stroll from one sight to another, you will also pass quirky modern sculptures, statues and fountains, but watch your step - there is dog poo on almost every pavement. The riverside is also marred by the nearby dual-carriageways, while outbreaks of graffiti and the odd intoxicated vagrant can make Rouen feel a bit edgy, 8/10

The Swan, Clapham Road, Stockwell, south London

A longstanding Irish drinking den and club right next to Stockwell tube station, the Swan is still a cheap and cheerful institution. Admission is just a fiver and that includes a barely-edible portion of sausage and chips, while pints of beer are available at pub-ish prices. Downstairs, on a Friday or Saturday evening, there is usually passable live music prompting the mostly white and mostly tipsy punters to throw themselves enthusiastically on to the modest dance floor. 7/10

The Falcon, St John's Hill, Clapham Junction, south London

A stone's throw from Clapham Junction rail station, the Falcon is a spacious pub dominated by a large central bar encircled by seats, tables and alcoves. The decor, with wood-panelling just about everywhere, is traditional and there are more than a half-a-dozen real ales on offer, as well as the mandatory lagers. The close proximity to one of London's busiest stations makes the Falcon a convenient meeting place for would-be revellers and by 9pm on a Friday night, some of the clientele maybe a little worse for wear. Plenty of choice, but service can be sluggish. 6/10