Cycling in Stockholm

Sweden's capital has an impressive network of dedicated cycle lanes, but sometimes you have to mix it with the Harleys.

Restaurant Paganini, Vasterlanggatan, Stockholm

Overlooking a pleasant cobbled street in the old town, a table beside the open windows in Restaurant Paganini is a good place to watch tourists wandering by on the long summer evenings in Stockholm. Inside, the ambiance is cosy and romantic - there are candles on the small tables, which are mostly occupied by couples. Restaurant Paganini serves good chianti and chablis by the glass (around 120 krona each), as well as by the bottle, which is a good thing given the high prices in Sweden. On the menu, there is an array of Italian dishes, including pasta and carpaccio, plus some Swedish dishes, featuring cuts of reindeer (298 krona), which is quite like beef, but even leaner and drier, and elk. The food is competent, but not spectacular, while the service by the young Swedish staff is welcoming and efficient. 6/10

Arlanda Express, Stockholm

Connecting the main airport to Stockholm city centre, Arlanda Express trains, painted a gaudy yellow, run every 15 minutes during the day in the summer. With a journey time of just 20 minutes, they are easily the fastest way to cover the 40 kilometers. Right now a special offer enables two adults to travel together one way for 250 Swedish krona, while a single adult fare is 240 krona. The Arlanda Express is quick and comfortable: Don't even consider a cab. 7/10

Nordic Sea Hotel, Vasaplan, Stockholm

Right next to the central station and the Arlanda Express terminus, the Nordic Sea Hotel couldn't be more convenient for travellers coming in from the airport. But with the exception of the gimmicky bar made out of ice, it doesn't have a lot of character - the lobby and breakfast room may remind you of the airport you just left. Moreover, the keenly-priced, but aptly-named "express rooms", could give you cabin fever. You won't want to hang around: They are small and claustrophobic - there are no windows and the air con isn't very powerful. At least, they come with free, fast Internet access and reasonably comfortable beds, while the decor is restrained and easy-on-the-eye. The buffet breakfast is quite good, with a decent selection of hot food, including some tasty lamb sausages, plus the continental stables. 6/10

British Airways, London Heathrow to Stockholm Arlanda

At Heathrow's terminal five, the security queues can be long and tiresome first thing on a Monday morning and you have to take a bus from the gate to the 7.30am Stockholm flight, so make sure you check-in online (early if you want a window seat) and arrive at the airport by 6.30am. You can take a small holdall on board, plus a laptop bag, so you may be able to avoid putting luggage in the hold. The two-hour flight to Stockholm is popular with business people and the plane can be crowded, but BA's blue leather seats are fairly spacious and you get a free sandwich and a hot or cold drink. On the way back, security at Arlanda tends to run smoothly and quickly, but the pricey food in the cafes can be lackluster, while the cappuccinos tend to be bland and lukewarm. 6/10