Sunday 2 August 2015

Restaurant at Hotel Les Falaises, Gluges, France

The eccentric in-house restaurant of Hotel Les Falaises is a somewhat unpredictable place to eat. Primarily serving guests from the hotel, its daily changing menu features a very small selection of dishes. Rather than writing them down on paper, the gregarious waitress describes them rapidly in French, making few concessions for Anglo-Saxon diners. Prepared by the seasoned chef, the meal tends to feature sublime starters, moreish mains and dour deserts. To start, you might get five big fat king prawns or an impressive salad with cheese, walnuts and prosciutto. Both dishes are doused in a fine dressing.

The main course could be a lovely piece of carefully-cooked, well-seasoned white fish in a creamy sauce, served with rice on the side.  Or it could be roast chicken and vegetables, accompanied by couscous studded with raisins and enlivened with lots of lemon. But the desert might be an excessively sweet île flottante (floating island) or a bland crepe served with sugar and cream. The dining room's decor is eclectic and incoherent, featuring exposed brickwork, wicker screens, terracotta tiles and wrought iron chairs, as well as the odd pot plant. And you might have a large china hen in the middle of your table. Unfortunately, Hotel Les Falaises' limited menu and idiosyncrasies can overshadow the good quality food, meaning the restaurant can be quiet. 7/10