Saturday 18 July 2015

Tanner & Co, Bermondsey Street, south London

On a weekend evening, Tanner & Co is one of few eateries on Bermondsey Street that may be able to muster a table at short notice. It benefits from handsome brickwork, a big airy dining room, a sizeable bar area and an outdoor terrace. Housed in a converted warehouse, Tanner & Co. is decorated with many industrial odds and sods. The resulting decor feels a bit contrived, but is pleasant enough and the place tends to buzz with thirty somethings. The comfort food on the menu, such as bacon and cheese burger on brioche, chutney, pickles and chips (£15), is competent enough and nicely presented. But barely justifies the premium prices. Tanner & Co also offers a fairly imaginative meat board and a tempting fish board (each costing £20) featuring fishcakes, smoked salmon and mackerel pate, brown shrimps, paprika aioli, ‘cold smoked’ salmon, pickled vegetables and a selection of breads. It sounds impressive on paper, but in reality, the platter is fairly modest and gets underwhelming reviews. Although it is a one-off, Tanner & Co. feels like it belongs in a coasting restaurant chain. 6/10