Saturday 20 October 2012

The Palmerston, Lordship Lane, East Dulwich

A well-established gastropub on Lordship Lane, the Palmerston is something of an institution among local carnivores. With a bar at the front and a dining room at the back, it still has the feel of a traditional Victorian pub with wood-paneling and ceilings and walls painted a deep red. Changing daily, the mostly British menu typically features half-a-dozen starters and half-a-dozen main courses with meat well-represented. While you are choosing, you can nibble on an artisan-style fresh bread roll. One of the starters on offer may be some decent mussels swimming in a creamy, salty soup. It is pretty moreish, but there is not really enough for £8. The main courses might include a juicy and mouthwatering steak (about £18). This will likely be a decent slab of beef, but it may be let down by the lackluster side dishes, which cost a few quid each. The fries might look like they belong in McDonalds, while the green beans, tomatoes and new potatoes are fairly mundane.  The Palmerston boasts a lengthy wine list, starting at about £14 a bottle, spanning the new and old worlds, plus some real ales, such as the Cornish Doombar, which has a bit of bite. If you can't manage a desert, the Palmerston does impressive Irish coffees. Service can be sluggish on a busy Friday evening, but is cheerful enough. 7/10