Sunday 25 October 2015

Naughty Piglets, Brixton Water Lane, south London

Images from Naughty Piglets' Instagram account

A small and cosy neighbourhood bistro, Naughty Piglets describes itself as a "charcoal grill restaurant and a natural wine bar". In practice, that translates into imaginative modern European food served tapas style, encouraging you to share and taste multiple dishes, supported by a lengthy and pricey wine list, starting at £23 a bottle and rapidly rising to more than twice that. Bewarned, the advice from the waiting staff can be erratic. Do not be tempted by the Riesling (£36 a bottle), which can have an unappealing apple aftertaste. Fortunately, the food is more reliable, if a tad expensive. The scallops and chorizo (£6) amounts to three tasty morsels, while the measly ham croquettes (two mouthfuls for £4) will leave you hungry for more. The portobello mushroom and egg yolk (£5), served with hazelnut pesto,  is also very good. Among the larger dishes, the leg of lamb (£16), served with shallots and kale, is earthy and delicious. To finish, the panna cotta, served with plums, and the salted caramel chocolate pot and hazelnut (both a fiver) are expertly done and hit the spot. However, the modest portion sizes mean particularly naughty pigs may leave either hungry or broke. 7/10