Sunday 7 December 2014

Angler Restaurant, South Place Hotel, Moorgate, central London

Images from Angler's web site

A refined Michelen-starred fish restaurant on the top floor of the stylish South Place Hotel, Angler is a fine choice for seafood-lovers looking for a special meal. While the architecture is both high-end and high-tech, the crisp white tablecloths, smart waiting staff and gleaming cutlery are just high-end. At Christmas, you can either plumb for the three-course festive menu (£48) or go a la carte. Either way, you will eat well and be treated to several free appetisers - the mushroom mousse is very, very good, while the sourdough bread is seductively warm and soft. The very extensive wine list starts at £21 a bottle, but if you aren't an aficionado, you can get a bottle of clean Chilean white for £25 that goes well with seafood.

To start, the crab cocktail is fresh and enjoyable, with a subtle mix of textures and flavours. Among the main courses, the smoked haddock and scallop pie, with spring onions and quail eggs, topped with potato, is delicious and filthy rich. Although you'll really enjoy this dish, the portion is generous to a fault. The chocolate fondant with chocolate pudding is a warm melt-in-the-mouth concoction, served with scintillating ice cream and ginger crumbs - a very nice touch. If you can't manage a pudding, you'll get some sweet, sweet biscuits with your bill. Although the service is warm and welcoming for an upmarket establishment, it can be a bit sporadic. Still, the food is beautifully presented and expertly prepared. Angler is from the top drawer. 9/10