Thursday 3 February 2011

The Thomas Cubitt, Elizabeth Street, central London

A smart gastropub in a smart neighbourhood within walking distance of Victoria station, the Thomas Cubitt has both a downstairs bar and an upstairs restaurant. In the bar, you eat at bare wooden tables set with sumptuous white napkins and quality cutlery, while the professional waiters will bring drinks to you. The panelled wooden decor is traditional, yet stylish, and the floor-to-ceiling pained windows are welcoming. Although the bar menu isn't very adventurous, offering cumberland sausages, pork belly, salmon and other standard pub fare, the food is generally nicely done. One of the specials, the steak pie with well-mashed turnip (£13), for example, is rich and flavoursome. But the sizable gap between the light fluffy pastry top and the meat means this dish may not fill you up. Among the side dishes, which are a hefty £4 each, the chips can be a bit too crispy and the broccoli a tad overcooked. A service charge is added to your bill and even a one-course meal could end up being pricey. Still, the Thomas Cubitt attracts plenty of well-heeled punters. 7/10