Monday 22 December 2008

Boswells, Russell Street, central London

In spite of the gentrified English name and a history dating back to the eighteenth century, Boswells doesn't feel much like a local institution. Rotund and cheerful eastern European women, in white shirts, serve the tables and the menu is made up of routine international fare, such as burgers, croque-monsieur, lasagna and ravioli, supported by the odd English dish, such as cottage pie and gravy. Moreover, the filter coffee (£2.20) comes continental style - strong and small. Still, for seven quid you can get a decent English breakfast made up of a couple of rashers of good bacon, two greasy fried eggs, a sprinkling of mushrooms, toast, a grilled tomato, a hash brown, a short fat sausage and baked beans. You eat at old-fashioned wooden tables surrounded by maroon walls and tourists from nearby Covent Garden. 6/10