Saturday 19 January 2008

The Cat's Back, Point Pleasant, Wandsworth, London

Characterful period pub tucked away amongst a modern residential development near the Thames, the Cat's Back has a hardcore of regulars and a friendly air. Surrounded by an eclectic jumble of objects, the bar serves a good selection of lesser-known beers. Upstairs, there is an elegant dining room, with burgundy walls and plenty of Victorian fittings, which will just about sit 16 people around a large table. For £55a head, including service, the Cat's Back will provide a substantial and cholesterol-packed three course meal and more bottled beer and table wine than you will care to drink. The modern British menu has a choice of four starters and six mains. To start, the chicken liver pate looks like solidified fat, but tastes good once you penetrate the surface. The rib eye steak comes with plenty of rich red wine sauce, compensating for the cutlery-bending meat. Finally, the solid Baileys cheese cake is served with a generous dollop of thick cream, which will help soak up the alcohol. Service is efficient and discreet. 7/10