Monday 3 December 2007

All Bar One, north end of Regent Street, London

A roomy bar with huge windows, stripped floors, plenty of tables and scores of shelves each stacked with a different wine. This a welcoming and airy branch of the All Bar One chain with plenty of continental beers on tap, including Leffe, Peroni and Staropramen. Food is mainly salads, burgers (about £8), sandwiches and a big selection of tapas (£3-£5), including sweet waffles. But the char grilled lamb burger, which comes with onions, charmula spice, beef tomato and skinny fries, is bland and tepid. The shoppers and office workers that frequent this branch are served at their tables by a small army of white-shirted waiters and waitresses. Good for a drink, but skip the food. 6/10