Saturday 2 June 2007

The Bistro, Bleeding Heart, Greville Street. London

French, very French - from the Impressionist prints on the dining room walls to the language of the menu to the white shirts and the thick Gallic accents of the waiters. If it weren't for the surprisingly international wine list, which features bottles from the Bleeding Heart's New Zealand vineyard, this establishment would pass for a upmarket Parisian neighbourhood bistro. Most importantly, the food is generally cooked with the precision typical of good French restaurants. The home-made blinis that accompany the smoked salmon starter are light, fluffy and full of flavour. Although the chunky Pomme Frites are a tad too salty, the sirloin steak has just enough fat to make for a juicy and filling main course. The waiters can get confused by English accents and the convoluted booking system, but service is generally prompt and polite. While certainly not a budget option, prices vary greatly depending on the dish (eight pounds to 20 pounds for a main course) meaning it is possible to enjoy the rich Gallic cuisine and atmosphere without breaking the bank. 8/10